While the Todra Gorge and the Taghia have become more well known as popular rock climbing destinations, Tafraout and the Anti Atlas region boast a high volume of concentrated climbing from the granite boulders of Tafraout to the quartzite monoliths of the Toudma Valley. It is a trad climber’s paradise with a high concentration of cracks to climb in the Tafraout Valley, but also thousands of adventurous multi-pitch routes throughout the region, many still waiting to be developed. However, sport climbers and boulderers will also be quite satisfied with the granite slabs of the region. The stunning landscape of rolling hills, striking boulders, and desert scenery adds to the allure of climbing here. With routes for beginners and seasoned climbers alike, it is an ideal climbing destination.
The stunning landscape of rolling hills, striking boulders, and towering steep rock faces only adds to the allure of climbing here. With routes for beginners and seasoned climbers alike, it is an ideal climbing destination for everyone.
TAFRAOUT GRANITE
Surrounding the city of Tafraout you will find heaps of granite boulders and slabs reminiscent of the rock formations in Joshua Tree National Park. Tafraoute has been a destination for climbers since the 1960’s, but it wasn’t until the 90’s that it took off. As more of the slabs and cracks were bolted creating a wide range of climbs, its appeal also grew.
There are close to 400 trad, sport and bouldering routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.13 (F4 to F8a) in the area, and many of the routes are near to Aguerd Ouded and the Painted Rocks. In some areas the granite can be brittle, but in the majority of the areas you will find high quality granite and three star climbing.
Beta
If you don’t want to deal with renting a car, most of the climbing in this area is accessible by bicycle from Tafraoute. You can easily rent a bicycle for a reasonable price from one of the locals.
Tick List
- Napolean’s Hat, Trafalgar Crack 5.10d (F6b+, or E2 5c)
- El Hachame 5.9+ (F5c, or HVS 5b)
- Azules de Vergara 5.8 (F5b or HVS 5a)
- Transaharania 5.11b (F6c or E4 6a)
- Flor de Luna 5.12c (F7b+ or E6 6b)
TAFRAOUT QUARTZITE + AMELN VALLEY
The dramatic cliffs on the southern front of Jebel Lkest (Afa-n-Tmezgadiwine) tower over the lush fertile landscape of the Ameln Valley just east of Tafraoute. In the early 90’s, adventure climbers came with their eyes set on pioneering routes up this area. This area gets full sun most of the day and is ideal in the winter months. This is where the area gained its reputation with those with an appetite for adventurous climbing, but there is a wide range of climbing in this area: from long multi-pitch adventures to single-pitch crags.
The famous feature of the Lion’s Head is also situated in this valley. While there are some climbs on it, Steve Broadband’s book advises, “Climbs on the Lion’s Face itself are major undertakings, not to be underestimated.”
Beta
The Ameln Valley and Anergui are treasure troves full of historic cultural sites. We recommend stopping in at the Maison Traditionelle in Oumsnat, a family owned museum of curiosities.
Tick List
- White Tower Direct 5.9 (F5b or HVS 5a)
- Techno Trousers 5.10+ (F6b or E2 5c)
- Black Mirror 5.10+ (F6b or E3 5c)
When to Visit
Many of the climbing areas in Ameln and Anergui are south facing, so it’s best to visit them in the winter season when temperatures are milder (November-March). During this time crags on the north side in the shade can be unbearably cold.
TOUDMA QUARTZITE + JEBEL L’KEST
The Toudma Valley might just be heaven on earth. As you weave your way up the valley above Ida Ougnidif on the west side of Jebel Lkest, take in the breathtaking views of towering quartzite formations on all sides. The opportunities for climbing in this valley seem endless and there are still many areas yet to be developed. There are even days you may have this whole valley just to yourself without another climber in sight.
The climbing in this area is primarily adventurous trad climbing, which adds to the allure for some, but also makes it less accessible to less experienced climbers. But wherever your skill level permits, we highly recommend climbing in this area even if you have to hire a guide. Many of our clients have traveled the world and say this is the most beautiful location they have ever been.
Beta
Stay at Ksar Rock Guesthouse just below Ksar Rock and across from Lower Eagle. The guesthouse is run by a local couple Mafhoud & Fatima so you will also be directly supporting the local economy (200 dhm, per night/per person; breakfast & dinner included). You can stay there and climb for days in areas that are just walking distance from the guesthouse.
Tick List
- Pink Lady 5.7 (F4+ or VS 4c)
- Desert Storm 5.10 (F6a or E1 5b)
- Noah’s Ark 5.6 (F4 or HS 4b)
- Paladin 5.6 (F4 or VS 4b)
- Lion King 5.10 (F5 or HVS 5b)
- Inshallah 5.10+ (F6a+ or E2 5c)
- Adventures Beyond the Ultraworld 5.11+ (F7a or E5 6b)
When to Go
Generally, the best time to climb is between October and April. In the mid-season months, you will definitely want to seek out sunny climbing like in the Ameln Valley and on Ksar Rock in Toudma. And in the early and late season on warm days, you will find the shade of Griffin Rock and other north facing crags quite inviting.
What to Bring
You could bring all the gear: a standard trad rack, rope, quickdraws and crash pads, but that is a lot to bring. It all depends on what you want to climb, but at minimum for sport climbing we recommend you bring a 70m rope, 14 quickdraws, and 4 extendable (alpine) draws. You may also consider renting gear from us or hiring one of our guides to take you to all the best climbs appropriate for your level.
Guide Books
If you are planning to visit this area we recommend getting a guide book ahead of time. Sometimes you can find them for sale in Tafraout at Maison Troc, but not always.
Climb Tafraout: Morocco Anti-Atlas, 3rd Edition – Includes more than 2000 rock climbs, mostly trad, on the quartzite of Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra to the north of Tafraout, but also cracks and bolted climbs.
Climb Tafraout: Tafraout Granite, 3rd Edition – Includes 800 routes (trad & sport) and boulder problems on the granite in Tafraout.
More Info
For more info on getting there, lodging and what to do while in Tafraoute, see Explore Tafraout: Adventure in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas.